Thursday, December 25, 2014

New Liquid and Solid Signature Shampoos

Solid shampoo bars using cold process soapmaking techniques but formulated with hair loving oils, butters and additives have been some of my most popular items over the past few years. People love the convenience and sulfate-free features of these shampoo bars and at times it can be hard to keep up with the demand. They are however, not for everyone. The naturally higher pH of these alkaline bars are great for deep yet gentle cleansing and softening of the hair, but not appropriate for all hair types or water conditions. Hard water is especially difficult for these type of shampoo bars oftentimes needing an acid rinse (diluted apple cider vinegar being the most common one used due to its availability at your local grocery store) to help remove hard water residue and maintain pH balance in the hair. Following up your shampoo with a conditioner can also help restore the pH balance but not deal with hard water rinsing issues.

So, in order to offer more variety and choices for those who still want a sulfate-free shampoo but are unable to use these shampoo bars, I have developed and am introducing a new line of shampoos using sulfate free and gentle surfactants (surface active agent). Surfactants are compounds that lower the surface tension between a liquid and a solid. They are what bind the dirt and sebum (solids) from our hair and skin to water (liquid) to allow those solids to easily rinse away during use. True soap (created from the saponification of oils with lye) is also a surfactant. There are however, chemically derived surfactants that are more suited to different hair and skin types and water conditions. Just like with anything else, there are a variety of these surfactants to choose from - some are very harsh detergents that can irritate and strip your hair and skin of much needed natural oils and many others that are very gentle and reduce the irritation factor of the finished product. Just like with formulating my soaps, choosing the surfactants to use based on what they bring to the finished product is the same as choosing which oils to use when formulating a bar of soap - those choices matter in the finished product.

Introducing a new liquid shampoo formulation suitable for all hair types in two scents (Fresh Clean and Bamboo Grapefruit) and 2 new solid shampoo bars - one for normal to dry hair and one for normal to oily hair - both in the Fresh Clean scent. The liquid shampoos are currently available in both my Etsy Shop and my online Website. The solid shampoo bars will be available in January 2015.

The new liquid shampoo offers gentle cleansing for all hair types in all water conditions plus it adds mild conditioning and moisturizing benefits. It is currently available in two unisex scents. The new solid bar shampoos also offer concentrated gentle cleansing, mild conditioning and moisturizing properties in a convenient and long lasting solid bar. Two bars will be available for different hair types that will work beautifully in all water conditions. Again, these are sulfate free shampoos to gently clean and nourish your hair.

Brief summary of ingredients used in the various formulations. Not all ingredients are used in all formulations.

Cleansing agents - no sulfates:

Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate - An extremely, gentle surfactant based on coconut fatty acids. It is exceptionally mild for skin, hair, and eyes, and is tolerant of hard water. Creates a nice foam and leaves behind a luxurious silky feel. Perfect for all hair types.

Cocamidopropyl Betaine - Organic compound derived from coconut oil. Another very mild cleanser (surfactant) with good foaming properties. Reduces harshness making final product very mild and gentle. Great for sensitive skin and scalp.

Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate - This is a very mild, moisturizing cleanser suitable for dry to normal hair types that is derived from coconuts. Excellent lathering properties and very tolerant of hard water.

Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate - A natural source surfactant that is derived fom natural vegetable oils. It is non-irritating and will not strip skin or hair of natural oils. Leaves skin and hair feeling soft and conditioned after rinse off. Excellent degreaser makes it a great addition for oily hair.

Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate - A great alternative to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate. Derived from coconut and palm oils, and conforms to Ecocert's natural and organic cosmetic standards. Non irritating, rich lather that is extremely mild and gentle.


Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) - Moisturizer, improvement of hair structure, may add luster and shine.
Natural Oils and Butters (Shea Butter, Argan Oil, Mango Butter, etc.) - Moisturizers
Glycerin - Humectant
Polyquaternium 7 - Conditioner, moisturizer and detangler.  Helps with wet combing.
Glycol Distearate - Conditioner and thickener
Hydrolyzed Proteins (Keratin, Wheat, Silk) - Moisturizers and film formers to coat the hair to protect and add shine. Some proteins add body and volume to hair. Strengthens.
Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride - Conditioner and thickener.
Behentrimonium Methosulfate (BTMS) - Conditioner
Cetyl Alcohol - Vegetable sourced fatty alcohol conditioner and thickener and emollient
Stearic Acid - Vegetable sourced fatty acid conditioner and thickener
Preservatives - Keeps water containing products from developing bacteria, yeast, mold and fungi.
Fragrances - to add scent

~ Faith 

Wednesday, December 17, 2014

Liquid Soap FAQ's

A list of some common questions and answers regarding liquid soap based on my research and experiences making liquid soap. 

Q: How do I determine the pH of my soap and what should it really be?
A: What is pH? In basic terms, pH is a figure expressing the acidity or alkalinity of a solution on a logarithmic scale on which 7 is neutral, lower values are more acid, and higher values more alkaline. The scale measures from 1 - 14, 1 being most acidic, 14 being most basic.

Liquid soap in an alkaline product and is meant to be an alkaline product with a pH typically in the range of 9 - 10.2. Trying to lower your pH below 9 or even around 9 and your soap begins to destabilize.  It will start reverting into water, glycerin (a by-product of saponification), fatty acids, soap content (which will reduce more and more the lower you take your pH) and whatever acid was used to alter the pH. A very common pH adjuster for liquid soap is Citric Acid, so if that was used, you would have Potassium Citrate as part of your solution too. 

Friday, November 21, 2014

Felted Soaps.........

Sometimes you have a batch or even just a few bars of soap that just does not look as nice as you were hoping.  The colors morphed, the swirls did not swirl, the colors bled together, the fragrance caused discoloration and you no longer have that beautiful and carefully designed and colored soap (thank you vanilla) you had planned on..... oh, what to do with said soap bars. Well, welcome to felted soap!

Wednesday, November 12, 2014

Photo Tutorial for Cold Process Soap with Side Embeds

This is a quick photo tutorial for those who already know how to create an in the pot swirl or have other decorative techniques and formulations under their belt. The vertical side embeds are created on day 1, set for 24 hours and then cut lengthwise (or in a mold with long dividers to evenly space them).  I use the same formulation for the side embeds as I do for the main soap. This is the resulting soap.

1.  Create a log of soap using an "in the pot" swirl technique. You can really use any technique you want depending on the look you want on the sides.  Since they are slim and I wanted lots of swirled colors, I chose this method.  You can do color layers, hanger swirls - any technique to get the look you want along the sides.  I use a formulation that allows time to create a design, but still sets up in 24 hours to be umolded and cut the next day.

2. After unmolding and cutting the soap lengthwise into 4 even strips, I place them into them into the mold I am going to use to create the soap.  These are 9" long silicone molds from Woodfield's Molds. Excellent quality silicone molds.  You want them to fit in there snug so they do not move when you pour the center soap.

3.  Create another batch using the same formulation, scent and color per your personal preferences. This soap is scented with a combination of Water Lily, Jasmine and Yuzu with no added color.  Pour the soap into the mold between the two strips already in place.  You want this too be a bit taller than you normally would pour a soap because it is going to have to be trimmed and cleaned up afterwards and you still want to end up with a decent size bar of soap.

4. Put the soap to bed (I always gel these soaps to insure that they pieces stick together and have never tried this without allowing the soap to gel) for 24 hours or however long your formulation needs to firm up for unmolding.

5. After 24 hours (or however long it takes for your soap to set up), unmold the soap.

5. Slice the soap into individual bars. You will then need to cut of a slim layer from the top to get a nice smooth surface. There may be some soap that ended up underneath and on the sides of the colored embeds that will also need to be cleaned up. Continue to trim as per your personal preference. I beveled the edges of this soap and added a stamp.

~ Faith
Copyright 2006 - 2014 Alaiyna B. Designs, Alaiyna B. Bath and Body.  All rights reserved.  All text and images are the property of Alaiyna B. Designs.  No part of this document or webpage may be reproduced by any means without prior written consent of Alaiyna B. Designs and/or Alaiyna B. Bath and Body.

Monday, October 20, 2014

Using PVC pipe as molds to create circular embedded soaps

I am always thinking of new ways to expand the artistic nature of creating handcrafted soap. Swirls, embeds, themes, etc. make the process of creating these high quality, nourishing, great for your skin soaps all the better.  Handcrafted soaps can range from unscented and uncolored which are excellent for sensitive skin to extremely ornate with beautiful scents to match.  These soaps make wonderful additions to the bathroom or kitchen, unique and creative gifts and showering with them can get your day off to a great and refreshing start.

Lately I have been experimenting with round soaps created in a circular column style mold then sliced into individual bars (sounds a lot like baking......). You can create some unique swirled designs as you pour the soap into the mold, but I wanted to take that to the next level by centering a circular embed within the main soap.

Saturday, August 30, 2014

New Embedded Soap Designs!

I love creating these types of soaps as they are so beautiful and unique.  It takes quite a long time to create them as it is a multi-step process.  First is to create the embeds (flowers, fruits, curls, etc) and since several of my molds only have 2 - 5 cavities, it is a long and repetitive process, - pour the soap, let it harden, remove from the mold and continually repeat until I have all the embeds that I need. For the curls, once the soap is hardened, then it goes through the planer to shred and curl it.

Once all the embeds are made, then the bars are made by layering hot soap, adding the embeds, layering again, adding more embeds - until the mold is full.

Things to keep in mind for creating these types of soaps.

 - I use SFIC bases for these soaps.  The clear base has a yellow tint to it so I add a tiny amount of blue liquid (non-bleeding) colorant to remove the yellow tint.  You have to be careful because if you use too much, you will then have a blue tint.  The SFIC clear base also has a very slight haze to it and there is nothing I can do about that, so the closer to the surface the embeds are, the clearer they will look.

 - Temperature control of your layering soap is crucial.  Too hot and you will melt the embeds, too cool and they won't stick together.  I can only make up to 7 or 8 full size bars at a time because layering the embeds takes time and while doing so, the layering soap starts to cool and I avoid continual reheating of it as it tends to get gummy after a while.

 - I no longer add fragrance to the translucent layer.  Many fragrances will cloud or discolor the soap. The cloudiness happens right away, but the discoloration (usually turns amber or golden yellow) can happen over time and ruins the look that took so long to achieve.  I now only fragrance the solid layer that is beneath the embedded layer.  Even with that technique, I only use clear (water white) fragrances as often as possible too.  These are fragrance oils that are as clear as can be in their raw state. Fragrance oils can run from clear to dark yellow to almost brown.  Brambleberry keeps a list of their "water white' fragrance oils which is a big help: Brambleberry Water White Fragrance Oil List.  I have found no other vendor who provides this information.

Here are my newest embedded soap creations - enjoy!

Rose Garden

Fresh Picked Blackberry

Fresh Picked Strawberry

~ Faith

Copyright 2006 - 2014 Alaiyna B. Designs, Alaiyna B. Bath and Body.  All rights reserved.  All text and images are the property of Alaiyna B. Designs.  No part of this document or webpage may be reproduced by any means without prior written consent of Alaiyna B. Designs and/or Alaiyna B. Bath and Body.

Wednesday, July 23, 2014

Basic Beginner Liquid Soap and Information

This is a basic liquid soap formula for those just starting out into liquid soapmaking.  It uses only 3 commonly used oils in soapmaking - nothing fancy, but makes a wonderful soap.  As you get a handle on making liquid soap, you can venture into using different liquids for your lye water, different oil combinations to get the properties you are looking for in a soap and so on in formulating for your own creations.  

1% superfat – no neutralization needed
Summerbee Meadow calculator used.

70% Olive Oil
20% Coconut Oil
10% Castor Oil

20 ounce oil batch

14 ounces olive oil
4 ounces coconut oil
2 ounces castor oil
4 ounces glycerin (from the initial water amount – this will help speed up the process of getting to the cooking stage)

4.27 ounces (121 grams) KOH
8 ounces distilled water (12 ounces liquid needed, the other 4 ounces is the glycerin added to the oils (This is optional and you can remove the glycerin and use 12 ounces of distilled water.)

I have split the required water amount into part water, part glycerin.  Using glycerin in place of part or all of your water will speed up the entire process of getting your paste to the cook stage and the cook in general.  Formulas high in olive oil tend to take quite a long time to get to trace.  You can omit the glycerin if you would like and use all water too.  Use enough water so that you can fully dissolve your lye.  My rule of thumb for minimum water amount is 1.1:1 water:lye ratio.  You can also replace all the water with glycerin, but this will require a different method to dissolve your lye.  I have other tutorials on using all glycerin too.

Wednesday, June 25, 2014

Decorative Cold Process Embeds with Powdered Colorant Swirled tops

I really love to embed soap within soap as you have much more control over the outcome of a specific look you are going for.  Here I have embedded thin (1/4") sliced logs of cold process soap into a full log of soap.  You get nicely defined decorative elements that are showcased when embedded in a larger loaf of soap.  You can also so this using individual molds, but must make sure that the embed is not completely buried by the surrounding soap.

The above two soaps were created using a two step process.  First the embeds were made by using an "In The Pot" swirling technique then poured into my 15" silicone log mold - unscented.  I did not fill the whole mold, but instead formulated to fill it about 2/3 full.  Allowed that to sit for 24 hours to set before removing it from the mold.  After 24 hours (this time is dependent on your formulation - mine sets up pretty firm after 24 hours), it is removed from the mold and sliced into 6 long pieces lengthwise.

Sunday, June 22, 2014

Glycerin Method Liquid Castile (100% Olive Oil) Soap Tutorial

The glycerin method for making liquid soap is quite popular as the main benefit is how it greatly reduces the time it takes to make your soap paste.  Glycerin in place of water speeds up the entire process which is very appealing to many soapmakers.  Making liquid soap using distilled water as your liquid can be very time consuming especially when working with formulas high in olive oil. These formulations high in olive oil take a very long time to trace (up to an hour for me) causing overheating of stick blenders, arm fatigue and so on.  The first time I made a 100% olive oil liquid soap, I was quite surprised (and frustrated) with how long it took.

Here is where using glycerin in place of water will be beneficial.   My 100% olive oil liquid soap using all glycerin instead of water to dissolve my KOH takes 2 1/2 hours from start to finish (not including diluting the paste).  This includes the time it took to measure out and prepare my ingredients and equipment.

So, let's get started...................... Please read through everything first before attempting this.

Thursday, June 19, 2014

New Stained Glass Soap

I was itching to try something new and challenging in the world of soapmaking and decided to combine some clear glycerin melt and pour in bright colors and cold process in a way I had not done before.  I cal this soap my "Stained Glass Soap" for how the glycerin embeds are translucent enough to give the impression of stained glass windows.  I am so thrilled with how this soap came out.   The embeds were created from SFIC clear glycerin soap colored with non-bleeding colorants from Brambleberry and embedded in a basic 4 oil cold process formula.  All put together in to a 15" long log mold.  Scented with lemongrass & sage fragrance from Elements Bath and Body and finished off with a dusting of multi-colored jojoba beads.

This soap took quite a while to create but it was well worth it.  I have another loaf the the multi-colored glycerin soap and will be making another one of these in a different scent.  Thinking about a tutorial for this one too......

You can see how the light shines through in this pic that is sitting on the window ledge.

~ Faith


Copyright 2006 - 2014 Alaiyna B. Designs.  All rights reserved.  All text and images are the property of Alaiyna B. Designs.  No part of this document or webpage may be reproduced by any means without prior written consent of Alaiyna B. Designs.

Tuesday, June 17, 2014

Black Raspberry Vanilla Soap using a new design technique.

I just love how this new soap turned out.  Layers of ivory, black and two shades of mauve to match the lovely Black Raspberry Vanilla Fragrance Oil from Brambleberry.  

To get this design, just place a solid piece of wood, a book - just about anything underneath the edge of one side of your log mold to angle the mold.  Separate your soap into as many colors as you would like while it is still fluid (homogenized but not beyond a very, very thin trace).  Scent and color each one.  Pour the first color down the side of the angled mold, then the next color on top of the first and so on.  Keep adding colors until the mold is filled (leave a bit of soap to finish off and decorate the top).  Remove the item you placed under the one side of the mold.  Tap the mold on the table to remove any air bubbles.  Add any remaining soap to the top and swirl the top colors for a finished look.

Next time I will do this soap in various shades of yellow as it almost looks like an abstract sunshine!

You want you soap somewhat fluid, but not too fluid that the colors swirl together when pouring them into the mold.

~ Faith
Alaiyna B. Bath and Body

Tuesday, April 8, 2014

Tutorial - How to Create Liquid Goat's Milk Soap

Goat's Milk Liquid Soap has been the most difficult soap to make thus far if looking for a crystal clear soap.  Goat's Milk has fat that must be accounted for in the lye calculations plus it has some unsaponifiables that you will have to deal with if using goat's milk in most quantities to get the benefits of the milk.  After experiment after experiment, I have succumd to the fact that my goat's  milk soap will not by crystal clear but I can do things to increase the clarity while maintaining the benefits that the goat's milk can bring to your liquid soap.

Saturday, March 29, 2014

Thickening Liquid Soap with Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose (HPMC)

Thickening liquid soap created from Potassium Hydroxide or a combination of Potassium and Sodium Hydroxides is a challenge that many soapmakers face.  There are a lot of thickening products out there for surfactant systems but many are not suitable for high ph soap products. There are two cellulose products that do effectively work to thicken these liquid soaps.  Hyroxyethel Cellulose (HEC) and Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose (HPMC).  Both of these products are readily available at Lotioncrafters and The Herbarie.  I had previously shown how to effectively use HEC to thicken liquid soaps and here I will show one way to thicken using HPMC.  Please note:  HPMC works very, very well at thickening dual lye (those using both potassium and sodium hydroxides) soaps at very small percentages.  I use about .5% of HPMC on my dual lye soaps.

Some people have success just heating up their soap, sprinkling the HPMC into it, whisking well and allowing it to cool down, whisking it every so often.  I tried this method and had difficulty getting the thickness I wanted and found that using it at greater than 1% caused my soap to cloud.  I went back to the vendors instructions and had more success with that method at much lower percentages of product - plus it is not necessary to heat the entire batch of diluted soap this way - just a portion of it.

Tuesday, March 25, 2014

Thickening Liquid Soap with PEG 150 Distearate

I came across another liquid soap thickener that I thought I would give a try to see how it works.  PEG 150 Distearate is available as Conditioning Thickener at The Herbarie and as labeled at Making Cosmetics.  Both suppliers indicate different usage amounts, one from .2 - 2% and the other from .5 - 5%.  Temperatures to incorporate it vary slightly too.  Since I purchased mine from the Herbarie, I will use their temperature guidelines.  It is very, very easy to incorporate into your liquid soap and gives an increase in viscosity at 2% and 3%.  It also does not cloud your soap allowing it to remain clear. The resulting thickness will also depend on how thick your soap is to start with. These amounts did not create a gel soap, but one that was slightly thicker than the diluted soap that I started with.  Here is how to use this thickener in your liquid soap.  I am using my liquid goats milk soap that I scent with 3 different essential oils.  I have used this thickener on soaps with 25% - 60% coconut oil content successfully.  Always try a small amount of your soap to see what percentage gives you the thickness you are looking for.

Sunday, March 2, 2014

Mississippi Mud Bars - Recipe

These chocolate bars are not only absolutely delicious but oh so easy to prepare - and I am all about easy to prepare treats.  Everyday ingredients are used to make this indulgent chocolate treat.  Great for yourself or a housewarming gift, potluck - you name it.


1 cup unsalted butter, melted
2 cups granulated sugar
1/2 cup unsweetened cocoa
4 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 tsp pure vanilla extract
1/8 tsp salt
1 1/2 cups all purpose flour
1 1/2 cups chopped pecans, toasted
1 10.5 ounce bag mini marshmallows

Chocolate Frosting
1 16oz package confectioners sugar
1/4 cup unsalted butter, melted
1/3 cup hot milk
1/3 cup unsweetened cocoa

15" x 10" jelly roll pan
Grease and flour pan

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

1.  Whisk together the first 6 ingredients (butter through salt).
2.  Stir in flour and 1 cup chopped pecans
3.  Pour and spread batter into the 15" x 10" greased and floured pan
4.  Bake at 350 degrees F for 20 - 25 minutes until a knife inserted in the center comes out clean.
5.  Remove from oven and spread marshmallows and the remaining 1/2 cup pecans evenly across the top
6.  Return to oven and bake an additional 5 minutes.

7.  Beat all frosting ingredients together until smooth.
8.  Drizzle and spread the frosting across the top of the warm bars.  The frosting will firm up and solidify as it cools.
9.  Cool completely and cut.


~ Faith

Sunday, February 23, 2014

New Soap Design

New striped soap design on the curing rack!

Here is a sample of my newest soap design.  Angled stripes of blue, pink, yellow, green, purple and burgundy in in ivory base with a coordinating swirled top.  Scented with a beautiful Hawaiian Hibiscus fragrance that also has notes of lavender, sweet violet and citrus.  Light and fresh and oh so nice.  This soap is now curing and will be ready for sale and use in about 4 - 6 weeks - just in time for spring!

~ Faith

Friday, February 7, 2014

Tutorial - Grated Soap Embeds for Cold Process

Recently, I had a few extra bars of soap lying around that I really did not know what to do with.  I came across this tutorial from the Otion blog and loved the look of the shredded soap embeds.   This tutorial used melt and pour as the base but I did not want to combine my bars of cold process into melt and pour so I decided to use part of that tutorial to create the soaps below - all in cold process.  This was a great place to start, but I made several modifications along the way that I will share here.  Please note that this is not a beginner tutorial.  

What you will need:

Thursday, February 6, 2014

New Website and Discount Code!

I have a new main website in addition to my Etsy shop that is now up and running.  Please visit and check it out.  To celebrate the launch of this new website I am offering 10% off all orders until 3/31/2104 using coupon code ABB10OFF at checkout.  
Come on over and take a look.

 Alaiyna B. Bath and Body Website

~ Faith

Monday, January 20, 2014

Almond Butter Cookie Recipe

I am a firm believer that excellent baked goods do not need to be complicated or created from exotic or hard to find ingredients and this recipe is a prime example.  These almond butter cookies use basic ingredients and are excellent.  They are delicious and elegant enough to be a gift.

 - 2 sticks unsalted butter at room temperature
 - 1 cup granulated sugar
 - 3 cups all purpose flour
 - 1 Tablespoon baking powder
 - 1/2 teaspoon salt
 - 2 ounces almond extract (yes, 2 ounces, this is not a misprint)
 - 3 Tablespoons heavy cream
 - 1 egg, beaten
    Large granular sprinkling sugar (can be found in the baking aisle of your local hobby and craft store or grocery store)

1.  Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
2.  Beat the butter and sugar on medium speed until light
3.  Add flour, baking powder and salt.  Mixture will be crumbly.

4.  Add almond extract and heavy cream.
5.  Mix until dough forms.

6.  Split dough into 3 equal portions and form into logs about 7" x 1 1/2" x 1 1/2"

7.  Refrigerate logs for at least 15 minutes.
8.  Place each log on an ungreased cookie sheet.
9.  Beat egg add brush onto tops and sides of each log.  Sprinkle with decorator sugar.

8.  Bake in oven for 25 minutes.  Logs will spread.
9.  Cool logs for about 20 minutes.  You can remove them from the cookie sheets at this point.  If you have trouble due to sticking from the eggs, take a long sharp knife and slide it underneath each log to loosen from the cookie sheet and transfer to a cutting board.

10.  Reduce temperature to 300 degrees F.
11.  Slice each log into strips about 3/4" wide.  Cooling them makes this part easier
12.  Place each strip back on the cookie sheet side up

13.  Bake for an additional 15 - 20 minutes.  Longer for crisper cookies, shorter for chewier cookies.


~ Faith

Sunday, January 19, 2014

Looking for "Natural" Bath and Body Products?

I often get people asking me if my products are "natural" and I often have a very hard time answering that question.  Not because I am trying to hide anything but because the word "Natural" has no legally defined meaning in its application to the products we both use and consume.   The definition of "Natural".

Does the above definition help you?  Probably not as you read through the ingredient list on your favorite shampoo and realize that you cannot even pronounce many of the names yet, the bottle says that it is "100% Natural".  Well, how can that be?  How can manufactures market their products as being "natural" when you know that ingredient list contains things that are chemicals?

Monday, January 13, 2014

New Graphic Art Soaps

I have 4 new sets of guest size graphic art soap.  These guest soaps are perfect for a guest bathroom, kitchen and make wonderful housewarming or shower gifts.  Several also work well for Valentine's Day.  Each set is scented to coordinate with the artistic images embedded in the soap and layered with soap of coordinating colors.  These soaps measure about 2" x 2" and weight approximately 1.8 ounces each and sell for $8.00 per set of 3.  

For information on how I create these types of soaps, you can view my tutorial here:  How to use Water Soluble Paper.

~ Faith
Alaiyna B. Bath and Body

Copyright 2006 - 2013 Alaiyna B. Designs.  All rights reserved.  All text and images are the property of Alaiyna B. Designs.  No part of this document or webpage may be reproduced by any means without prior written consent of Alaiyna B. Designs.

Friday, January 3, 2014

What's So Great About Solid Hair Conditioner Bars?????

I have been creating and using solid hair conditioner bars for well over a year now and they are my best selling product (solid shampoo bars run a close second).  What is so great about them?  Here is my list:

 - No waste.  Liquid hair conditioners are mostly water (60% - 80% based on formulation) which is what gives them their liquid consistency.   The thicker the product, the less water in it, the thinner, the more water in it.  Solid hair conditioner bars have no water - just all the good conditioning and nourishing ingredients.  You use the water from your shower to help distribute the product.   One 3.8 ounce conditioner bar is equivalent to about 16 ounces liquid conditioner.